Ahlem Brings Bronze Back to Eyewear

The French luxury eyewear label revives a historic metalworking technique for sculptural, nickel-free frames while expanding its presence across New York, Tokyo and Paris.

Ahlem is looking to the past to shape the future of eyewear. The Paris-founded independent luxury eyewear brand is reintroducing bronze to contemporary frame design, reviving a material and French craftsmanship tradition that has largely disappeared from modern eyewear production.

Led by founder and creative director Ahlem Manai-Platt, the brand spent around two-and-a-half years developing its bronze construction. The process involved formulating the alloy, developing new frame designs and conducting extensive laboratory testing, including extreme oxidation simulations, to ensure the material could meet the demands of everyday eyewear.

The choice of bronze reflects Ahlem’s commitment to French craftsmanship and technical expertise. Once used more widely in French eyewear, bronze became less common as manufacturing techniques evolved and other lightweight metals gained prominence.

For Ahlem, bringing it back is not simply a nostalgic exercise. The material offers distinct design and performance advantages. Nickel-free bronze provides an alternative for wearers with skin sensitivities, while its density and rigidity allow for more pronounced architectural forms and sculptural detailing.

The new construction also creates opportunities for intricate finishing techniques, including laser-engraved filigree, hand-hammered bevels and contrasting polished surfaces. While the temples are produced in bronze, the frame fronts continue to use Ahlem’s established plated metal construction, which is better suited to the curved geometry required at the front of the frame.

Another benefit lies in the distribution of weight. The greater density of bronze shifts part of the frame’s weight towards the temples, contributing to a more balanced fit and enhanced comfort during extended wear. It is a largely invisible technical detail, but one that can influence the overall wearing experience.

Nine New Frames Debut at Silmo Paris
The new bronze construction will form a key part of Ahlem’s presentation at Silmo Paris, taking place from September 25 to 28 at Paris Nord Villepinte.

The launch introduces nine new frame designs featuring bronze temples, offered in three metal colour options. They will join Ahlem’s wider portfolio of approximately 550 references.

The development further strengthens the brand’s positioning around small-batch French manufacturing, material expertise and understated luxury—an approach that places craftsmanship and longevity ahead of overt branding.

Ahlem Expands Its Retail Presence
The introduction of bronze comes alongside a significant expansion of Ahlem’s own retail network.

The brand has opened its second New York location in the Meatpacking District, a 970-square-foot space that becomes its largest boutique in the United States.

In October, Ahlem is set to enter a new phase of its international retail strategy with the opening of its first Asian flagship in Tokyo. The approximately 860-square-foot boutique will be located in Minami-Aoyama, opposite the Nezu Museum and its gardens.

Japan has been an important market for Ahlem since the brand’s launch 12 years ago and remains one of its three largest markets, alongside the United States and France.

Paris will also see the opening of a second Ahlem boutique in the Haut Marais later in October, strengthening the brand’s presence in its home market.

By the end of 2026, Ahlem expects to operate eight boutiques under its own name. Its retail concept extends beyond traditional eyewear sales, incorporating on-site opticians, same-day prescription services and a growing bespoke offering introduced in 2024.

Craftsmanship Meets Global Growth
The expansion follows a minority investment from 1686 Partners, an investment fund launched by David Wertheimer with a focus on high-end lifestyle brands.

Ahlem currently operates through approximately 900 wholesale doors worldwide and has recorded 35 percent year-on-year growth, with wholesale business increasing by around 20 percent. Its global workforce has also grown to approximately 65 employees.

Despite its expansion, the brand continues to emphasise a measured approach to luxury. For Ahlem, the objective is not simply to increase its footprint, but to build on the qualities that have defined the brand from the beginning: French manufacturing, distinctive design, comfort, durability and material expertise.

The revival of bronze therefore represents more than the launch of a new frame material. It reflects Ahlem’s broader strategy of combining heritage craftsmanship with contemporary eyewear innovation, while extending that philosophy into new markets and retail environments.

With bronze returning to the frame and new doors opening across three major cities, Ahlem is positioning craftsmanship—not excess—as the foundation of its next phase of growth.

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